Nikšić — Beer, Fortress, and the Last Stop Before the Wild
Nikšić is Montenegro's second city — 56,000 people spread across a wide mountain plain at 630 metres elevation, about an hour's drive from Podgorica. It is the kind of town that tourists drive through on their way to Durmitor, which is a mistake. Stop here. Fill the tank, tour the brewery, climb to the hilltop fortress, and eat at one of the local grill restaurants before the road north leaves civilisation behind.
The city has a different energy from the coast — less glamour, more grit. Nikšić is an industrial town with a proud identity, best known across the Balkans as the home of Nikšičko beer. The surrounding landscape is all open plateau, distant mountain ridges, and sheep farms — a preview of the vast, sparsely populated north that lies ahead.
Trebjesa Brewery
Nikšičko has been brewed here since 1896 on the slopes of Trebjesa hill. The brewery offers tours and tastings — a cold pint of Nikšičko Tamno (the dark lager) after an hour's mountain driving is one of life's simple pleasures. The brewery terrace has views over the city and the Nikšić plain stretching to the mountains beyond.
Krupac Lake
An artificial lake on the northern edge of town, surrounded by walking paths, picnic spots, and a small beach. In summer, locals swim, fish, and barbecue along the shores. The water is clear and the mountain backdrop is dramatic — a surprisingly pleasant spot for a town that does not feature in any tourist brochure.
Bedem Fortress
The ancient hilltop fortress overlooks the entire Nikšić plain from a rocky promontory. Originally Roman, rebuilt by the Ottomans, and now a summer venue for concerts and cultural events. The climb takes about 15 minutes and the 360-degree panorama from the walls is the best view in the region — agricultural plains in the foreground, mountain ridges stacking up to the horizon in every direction.
Gateway to Durmitor
Nikšić is the natural staging point for Durmitor National Park. From here, the road north enters increasingly wild territory — farmland gives way to forest, the mountains close in, and by the time you reach Šavnik the landscape is pure highland wilderness. Fill your fuel tank in Nikšić. The next reliable petrol station is in Žabljak, over an hour of mountain driving away.
Getting Here from Podgorica
The drive takes about 1 hour via the E762. The road is well-maintained dual carriageway for most of the route, climbing gradually from Podgorica's river plain through farmland and light forest. Watch for the Ostrog Monastery turnoff about 30 minutes in — you can combine both stops in one day trip.